"You are lucky to be in Kamchatka"

“You are lucky to be in Kamchatka” my trekking guide said. Who says that? Only someone who understands where he lives and what the place means and has meant to the few hundred foreign travelers that make it here every August, yes there is only one month that can be called as the right time to travel. As I write now a few minutes from boarding the flight back to civilization, I understand what the guide meant.

To photograph the Northern Lights in – 20 deg, I thought was difficult. As I transfer the pictures from my SD card now I realize and relive the moments on the volcano Mutnowsky. For many of my co travelers the trek though difficult wasn’t risky. For me with my city boots, made me realize how much of an importance good clothing and shoes can make when nature shows its form.  The rain, the fog and the climb in adverse weather conditions prevented even the avid photographers that day from taking any pictures of the Volcano. It was as if the volcano said, just leave and let me be.

The treks usually all start in a group unless you want to do it on your own and take on the extremes. Petropavlosky is the chief town in the Kamchatka peninsula and the way people are glad when they arrive here by flight, they are even more so when they leave the town in a 6 x 6 and go off road. Kamchatka is only connected by air with main land Russia and although it is not an island and just a peninsula it is impossible to get here by road through the high Volcanic mountains. By sea from Japan or by Air from Russia is the only thing to do. The used right hand driven cars come from Japan so as a lot of other Japanese products, thankfully not China.  The trucks however are specially constructed in Kamchatka for the worst of mountain roads or lets call it paths. There are several Volcanoes near the town only if the distance is measured in kilometers. However to get to the base camp you go at general speeds of 15 km / hr and once there the camp has to be set. 

Each one pitches his own tent, I had to take the help of my fellow experienced campers. The first night I realized how less prepared I was, with no sleeping mat, no sleeping bag atleast I had bought the mosquito net for the head and the repellent. The briefing is made during dinner, which is wholesomely cooked and neatly arranged by the enthusiastic cooks.  The guide commonly only speaks Russian as he is not a tourist guide, just a guy who loves to spread his legs under the open sky and move them on volcanic grounds. So the interpreter is always taken along. Its like listening to one of those world forum speeches where the president of Russia speaks in his tongue and the interpreter follows in English.

Bears are always lurking around the corner, but since at least 2 – 3 camps of 10 tents each are in close vicinity, the wild stay away. Food therefore is not supposed to be kept open and the kitchen is away from the main camp. The first night happened to be my first night in a tent ever, not considering the Sahara where I had firm ground and an experience guide to pitch my tent. The breeze blowing over high grass makes a weird sound, and it feels that a bear is scratching on the tent, imagination goes wild and ensures sometime has gone before you sleep. The next morning when I woke up and stepped out of the tent, the morning sky was maddening ! The guys with tripods and pro cam’s were already up and shooting. I however simply chose to breathe and look. I will edit the toilet part and how everyone avoids the temporary toilets in the tent full of bees and goes in search of a high ground with a shovel. After breakfast the trek begins. The truck took us to a point from where the first Glacier of the Mutnowsky volcano was visible. I thought that our path wont cross it, but then I could see some reds and black figures walking on it from a distance. This is much before the rain came calling. Somewhere halfway through the trek across, glaciers, streams and loose mud we realized that the weather isn’t getting any better. The faces of people returning from the peak were like, we made it but good luck to you. The ascend is easy, but the fog can sometimes give no clear view of the crater as it happened with us. The descent is and for me was the most overwhelming experience. I can only say that when I reached the base I was glad that the whole thing was over. 

The days on the Volcano are a mix bag, the weather is all controlling and if it decides to be kind you will have treat, if not the climb will treat you to an experience which you wont forget in a good and a bad way.

There are trips that can be done with the helicopter and then there is trekking after that. Or simply blow the money on the helicopter and reach the place directly. But its not adventurous enough for many and so the only frequent air trips are to the valley of the geysers. To view the bears is the other exciting thing people do, and sometimes spend 3 – 4 days camping and searching for that best photo shot. The rafting and fishing trips also can last for a week or more to get your rush.  The ultimate rush is always when you are in nature all by yourself. Like the Norwegian couple I met at the Kamchatka Airport.  Their bags each weighed 40 kgs and I later learnt that they had spent 12 days on the river, rafting and another 12 days waiting for someone to come and pick them up. I never wanted to ask them how it was, I just chose to imagine.

I know now what is the peak of adventure in this, or any land routed deep in wild nature. Some day I wish I could reach atleast the base of that peak !

Kamchatka, changed the way I look at travel in general. I always loved travelling, now I respect it.