Thursday, July 30, 2015

The mountains in Montenegro .. Zabljak and the Durmitor National Park

The third largest canyon in the world, The Tara River canyon is in Montenegro. I had decided to go to Zabljak, the summer mountain destination of Montenegro, much before I knew about this canyon. The place for the sea had been filled up by Kotor, but on a previous occasion BiH (Bosnia and Herzegovina) was the prime candidate for mountains. As both the neighbors move northwards, so does the altitude. I needed a mountain destination for a stay and Zabljak in Montenegro, got the points over Visegrad in BiH. The river canyon would be a bonus, I thought.
It was one more of the Bus journeys and by this time I had really become fond of traveling the road like this. The constant flow of people in and out of the bus, doesn’t let you sleep, but then who wants to sleep, when some of the best mountainous scenery is unfolding in front of you. Smoking in the bus(only by the driver) is common, and even when the driver opened his side of the window to let the smoke out, it didn’t help me covering my face. It did however get a fresh breeze inside the air con bus. The cool in the breeze was a real welcome, to the mountains.

There is a village called Zakopane in Poland, where along with the mountains, the style of the houses are a constant reminder of the place. The style of the houses in Zabljak was what made Zabljak different from the other mountain villages I’ve seen in my travels. Though that night I slept in a basic town ‘guest house’, I knew that I would try to give my people the feel of staying in the country accommodation.

The red of the wine was the darkest color of red, I have witnessed in the glass. Even with the mountain sunlight kissing the surface, the color didn’t faint. ‘What do I have with the red’, I asked the waiter. ‘Something Local?’,  out of which only ‘local’ was said in English. ‘Malo’ I said. But like in Bosnia with the Cevapi, (the grilled meat sausage), malo, which is small in Slavik, made little sense when the order came in. At least the wine in the glass kept to its measure.
With some local roast lamb, still on my plate, I left the restaurant just when it had started filling up with ‘Russians’. ‘They have the same religion, they have the same writing, they are like us’, said the Serbian waiter to me. I don’t know how I felt about that and I doubt he did.

The ‘crno jezero’, or the Black lake is the pearl of the Durmitur National park. With only 3 kms away from the town and the lamb stuffed in my stomach, a walk was needed.  As I started on the path, more and more tourists joined in and equal numbers returned. There, I knew I was once again, only going to just check a place out.
In the evening a local travel guide told me that even though the lake is just 'good', the park on the whole is worth the visit.

The Black Lake in the Durnitor National Park
I would’ve questioned my coming here, but I knew when I give this more time I would justify the decision of including Zabljak in the tour. It had potential, I could sense it, and so with no rafting in the river, which was a must for everyone who came there, I decided to quietly leave the place to the future.

The next day when I passed the Tara river Canyon, on the bus to Belgrade, I peeped to look down at the gorge and the green lining at the bottom of it. The Tara looks much more beautiful with you touching it, someone had said. I said hello to Tara and then bid good bye in a matter of two turns of the bus, and  with the promise to myself of touching it sometime.
The good part of my work, remains, the comfort to know, that I would come back!



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