Friday, February 22, 2013

Myanmar Diaries - The Royal Myanmar Railway


After a crazy day at the lake where the only good part was my boat driver did every turn I asked him to, I had to move away from the tourists. So I decided to take the 15 km/hr train to a town called Kalaw. It’s the sort of a typical ‘British Hill Station’ the book said. During the early 30’s when the British were building railways in Burma, the Indians, the Nepali’s and the Bangladeshi’s all came in search of work. If you see anyone looking different than the average Burmese then they mostly are the 3rd generation of the then railway workers.

                                             The start of my journey - Nyuangshwe Station

The train journey is some kind of another experience. The speed is not only excruciatingly slow but the way the carriages shake remind you of some ride in an entertainment park. Well to talk about entertainment, there is enough provided by the locals. The train makes 4 stops on the way to Kalaw during the 70 kms trip. The stations look more like those seen in the 1930’s pictures of Mumbai with a tin shade on the top, a few bullock carts outside to carry the people as well as the goods. The only thing that reminds you of this decade is a vehicle manufactured by Honda or Toyota parked on the road.  At many times, I thought I am looking at a scene from an old Hindi movie only in color.

Like in India, the train is never in time. But here comes the best bit from the station where I boarded the train, Shwenyuang junction.
The train pulls in at the station exactly 45 minutes late, and the stationmaster says “good in time”. We are a group of only 6 – 7 foreigners who have taken the upper class, which as I enter appears to me more ransacked than the ordinary class. The only difference is the higher fare and cushioned seats. I find a seat in the direction of the movement and settle down. There are atleast 4 -5 layers of dust on the table in front of me, but that’s nothing to complain about. The ticket collector gives a hand to an elderly french couple with their lugguage and then is eager to tell everyone to sit on the seats assigned to them, in an almost empty compartment.

                                            No Rush ! The train waits till you have shopped

Later, as the train is about to move, a family of eight children with their respective mothers, get inside the compartment and it feels a little alive around me. Alive not noisy! The train starts with the expected thud and after less than 100 metres it stops suddenly. It starts to move backward and I realize it is changing tracks. Well, it stops again and moves in the same direction as before only this time it stops at the station again. Some people get in the train. It moves and stops again .. this is the time when the big family gets out. It seems the ladies just wanted to give their children a ride. They all jump out on an open field and a single lady who was watching them all this while gets into the compartment. She is the real traveler I realize. Welcome to Myanmar Railways, I tell myself.

The train finally starts to move at more than 10 kms/hr and the family from down below shout their bye’s out loud to the solo woman. This was it!! I tried not to make anything out of it and just enjoy their passing company. Two people with uniforms and chewing on the beetlenut pan settle next to me and say ‘mingla ba’ in local language means ‘hello’.  By this time I forget that the scenery outside was one of the draws for me to take this journey and in the roller coaster of a train, I go off to sleep. I may have been on the verge of almost knocking myself out when a hand shook me. It was one of the guys in the uniform, “look out, goo view’. I smiled and saw that the train had already started to ascend and a bridge constructed in the 40’s was approaching. I had already seen it a day earlier from the road, but for him I said .’ya good’. He was the ticket collector, part time porter and now also the tour guide.
The first stations it pulled in was Heho and by then the man had already shown me three other sites. One of them was the crash site of an ‘air bagan’ flight, which by the way I was going to take the next morning. “air bagan .. doosh” he spoke more with his action than with his doosh !
The next item on the entertainment list was oranges. Oh yes .. on the train they eat oranges for time to pass. Its more like the pan chewing habit can only be given up for oranges. As I got down at the Heho station, I too bought oranges coz by then I had too much of accepting oranges from everyone on the train and not giving them any. It was like exchanging greetings with an orange and I did not want to fall behind. So even when the price for oranges for a foreigner was double of that of the locals, I got the necessary number of oranges I thought would last me for the journey, little did I know that I would beat my own personal record with oranges which was 1/10th of what normal man eats on a 5 hour train journey in Myanmar.

                                                   From Station to home.. Anyone ?

The second station came and this time there was not the commotion of Heho. So I got out to stretch a little and walked past my compartment to peep in the huge wooden windows, a group of officials and regular commuters playing Burmese poker with all sorts of local currency denominations on a make shift table and orange peels on the floor. “Come play, it fun’ I just nodded and as the train started I went and joined the group. This was the craziest form of poker I had seen. The bills were folded in one, two and upto four folds.  I did not even attempt at asking why. The winner at each hand gulped in one more orange and laughed.

We take pictures, or write on a travel. I had never seen a paint diary before. A French woman, whom I earlier saw sit outside the station painting a water sketch of the surrounding had now engaged my attention as I moved around the compartment to cut time.  I saw the colorful pages open and had to ask for permission to see it. She promptly said in her french accent, “I have one on India, wait I show you”! It was beautiful and took me the next 30 minutes of the journey.  The last 45 minutes of the journey I sat alone and looked out as the air turned cooler and the scenery greener.
The train was the unexpected surprise of my visit to the state of Shan. As I got down at Kalaw. I did not care about the town. The journey was enough to make it a day.





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