“You are lucky to be in Kamchatka” my trekking guide said.
Who says that? Only someone who understands where he lives and what the place
means and has meant to the few hundred foreign travelers that make it here
every August, yes there is only one month that can be called as the right time
to travel. As I write now a few minutes from boarding the flight back to
civilization, I understand what the guide meant.
To photograph the Northern Lights in – 20 deg, I thought was
difficult. As I transfer the pictures from my SD card now I realize and relive
the moments on the volcano Mutnowsky. For many of my co travelers the trek
though difficult wasn’t risky. For me with my city boots, made me realize how
much of an importance good clothing and shoes can make when nature shows its
form. The rain, the fog and the
climb in adverse weather conditions prevented even the avid photographers that
day from taking any pictures of the Volcano. It was as if the volcano said,
just leave and let me be.
The treks usually all start in a group unless you want to do
it on your own and take on the extremes. Petropavlosky is the chief town in the
Kamchatka peninsula and the way people are glad when they arrive here by
flight, they are even more so when they leave the town in a 6 x 6 and go off
road. Kamchatka is only connected by air with main land Russia and although it
is not an island and just a peninsula it is impossible to get here by road
through the high Volcanic mountains. By sea from Japan or by Air from Russia is
the only thing to do. The used right hand driven cars come from Japan so as a
lot of other Japanese products, thankfully not China. The trucks however are specially constructed in Kamchatka
for the worst of mountain roads or lets call it paths. There are several Volcanoes
near the town only if the distance is measured in kilometers. However to get to
the base camp you go at general speeds of 15 km / hr and once there the camp
has to be set.
Each one pitches his own tent, I had to take the help of my
fellow experienced campers. The first night I realized how less prepared I was,
with no sleeping mat, no sleeping bag atleast I had bought the mosquito net for
the head and the repellent. The briefing is made during dinner, which is
wholesomely cooked and neatly arranged by the enthusiastic cooks. The guide commonly only speaks Russian
as he is not a tourist guide, just a guy who loves to spread his legs under the
open sky and move them on volcanic grounds. So the interpreter is always taken
along. Its like listening to one of those world forum speeches where the
president of Russia speaks in his tongue and the interpreter follows in
English.
Bears are always lurking around the corner, but since at
least 2 – 3 camps of 10 tents each are in close vicinity, the wild stay away.
Food therefore is not supposed to be kept open and the kitchen is away from the
main camp. The first night happened to be my first night in a tent ever, not
considering the Sahara where I had firm ground and an experience guide to pitch
my tent. The breeze blowing over high grass makes a weird sound, and it feels
that a bear is scratching on the tent, imagination goes wild and ensures
sometime has gone before you sleep. The next morning when I woke up and stepped
out of the tent, the morning sky was maddening ! The guys with tripods and pro
cam’s were already up and shooting. I however simply chose to breathe and look.
I will edit the toilet part and how everyone avoids the temporary toilets in
the tent full of bees and goes in search of a high ground with a shovel. After
breakfast the trek begins. The truck took us to a point from where the first
Glacier of the Mutnowsky volcano was visible. I thought that our path wont
cross it, but then I could see some reds and black figures walking on it from a
distance. This is much before the rain came calling. Somewhere halfway through
the trek across, glaciers, streams and loose mud we realized that the weather
isn’t getting any better. The faces of people returning from the peak were
like, we made it but good luck to you. The ascend is easy, but the fog can
sometimes give no clear view of the crater as it happened with us. The descent
is and for me was the most overwhelming experience. I can only say that when I
reached the base I was glad that the whole thing was over.
The days on the Volcano are a mix bag, the weather is all
controlling and if it decides to be kind you will have treat, if not the climb
will treat you to an experience which you wont forget in a good and a bad way.
There are trips that can be done with the helicopter and
then there is trekking after that. Or simply blow the money on the helicopter
and reach the place directly. But its not adventurous enough for many and so
the only frequent air trips are to the valley of the geysers. To view the bears
is the other exciting thing people do, and sometimes spend 3 – 4 days camping
and searching for that best photo shot. The rafting and fishing trips also can
last for a week or more to get your rush. The ultimate rush is always when you are in nature all by
yourself. Like the Norwegian couple I met at the Kamchatka Airport. Their bags each weighed 40 kgs and I
later learnt that they had spent 12 days on the river, rafting and another 12
days waiting for someone to come and pick them up. I never wanted to ask them
how it was, I just chose to imagine.
I know now what is the peak of adventure in this, or any land
routed deep in wild nature. Some day I wish I could reach atleast the base of
that peak !
Kamchatka, changed the way I look at travel in general. I always
loved travelling, now I respect it.
